When I purchased my bike one of the first thing I wanted to change for appearance reasons was the turn signals. Honda has been using the same old design for years. I have the same ones on my 99 F4 and God there but ugly.

Another reason to change them became clear when my bike tipped over in the driveway. The bike fell on the grass but that did not stop the turn signal from cracking the mid fairing where the signal attaches to it. Also members of 1000rr.net have experienced similar problems with the mid fairings cracking from even just bumping into the signals by accident.

So the hunt was on for a premium set of flush mounts. The first I came across was the Greg’s flush mounts and I almost bought them until I came across the Watsen Design Flush mounts.

Photos By Mad Mardigen

The three things that sold me on the Watsen’s were; they had them in Repsol orange; I like the way the flush mounts stick out just a little so the LED’s can actually point forward; they also have a running light kit available for an extra 10 bucks

So I went out and bought a set with the running light kit. The flush mounts come with every thing you need to get started Mounting hardware crimp connectors and two 10 watt resistors so the DOT flash rate will stay the same.

I tossed the 10 watt resistors in lieu of a VFX Flasher relay (see the VFX article) those resistors get hot and could possibly damage your fairings if not placed properly. I also tossed the crimp connectors in lieu of soldering the wires and using self sealing shrink wrap tubing. (available at most automotive parts stores)

Photos By Mad Mardigen

To install the flush mounts you will need the following tools. A stubby Philips screw driver, a ratchet, a 5mm Allan head socket or key, 10mm wrench, needle nose pliers, lock tight blue, a wire stripper, soldering iron and solder, shrink wrap and a heat gun.

To remove the fairing start from the bottom of the fairing. Remove the 4 Philips trim clips and the one 5mm allan head screw. The trim clips may be a bit difficult to remove because dirt usually fills the philips head. If this is the case, use a needle to clean it out. Now if your turning the head of the trim clip and is does not seem to unthread, a good trick is to reach inside the fairing and push on the side of the trim clip while you unscrew it. You only need the trim clip head to unscrew a couple of mm and you should be able to pull it out with your nails

Now using the needle nose pliers remove all six trim clips on the left and right hand sides, grip the head with the pliers and simply pull them out.

Photos By Mad Mardigen

With the ratchet and the 5mm Allan socket remove the 2 special screws and then the 3 pan head screws holding the lower fairing to the mid fairing. Hold the lower fairing when you remove the last screw so the fairing does not fall to the ground and get scuffed. Gently remove the fairing and put it out of the way. Then perform the same operation on the left side to remove the other lower fairing

Photos By Mad Mardigen

Next use the ratchet and the 5mm Allan socket remove the 4 pan head screws holding the mid fairing to the upper fairing. Gently separate the mid from the upper.

Photos By Mad Mardigen Disconnect the flasher connector and remove the mid fairing. Perform the same operation on the right side to remove the other mid fairing

Photos By Mad Mardigen Cut the OEM signal connector wire. (Note: leave an inch sticking out of the signal if you ever intend to put the OEM signal back on) Then use the 10mm wrench to remove the turn signal.