Clear Alternatives integrated tail light
If you read my article on the Watsen Design flush mount turn signals you already know
what I think about the stock turn signal indicators.
Photos By Mad Mardigen
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I decided on the Clear Alternatives integrated tail light because I wanted to clean up the
tail section of all the clutter. It’s the cleanest and easiest setup that I have found and
it’s reasonably priced compared to other offerings.
My only concern was the visibility of the integrated tail light. Well after installing the Clear
Alternatives tail light and testing it, I can assure you that the brake light and the amber turn
indicators incorporated into this unit are highly visible.
Are these legal? Well I can’t answer that. I can say that I have been riding with the integrated
tail light for over a year and had zero issues. I have even been followed by the police and never had any problems
whatsoever but in some States or Provinces you may have issues with local law enforcement, so it
would be good to ask around before considering this product.
The tail light comes complete with a stock connector for the running light and brake light features
and 2 resistors to retain the DOT flash rate but as I stated in my Watsen Design article, I tossed
the resistors in lieu of a VFX Flasher relay (see the VFX article) those resistors get hot and could
possibly damage your tail piece if not placed properly.
For this installation you will need the following tools. A stubby Philips screw driver, a ratchet,
6 inch extension, a 5mm Allan head socket, 10mm wrench, a wire stripper, Soldering iron and solder,
self sealing heat shrink tubing and a heat gun.
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To remove the rear tail light you need to completely remove the tail piece.
Start by removing the seat. You will need the ratchet, 6 inch extension and 5mm hex socket. Now grab
the left rear corner of the seat and fold it back, this will reveal one 5 mm pan head screw.
Remove this screw and then fold back the right side and remove the other screw. Remove the seat
by pulling the seat back.
Next remove your passenger seat using your key.
 
 
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Now remove the four 5 mm pan head screws that hold the tail fairing to the subframe.
 
 
 
 
 
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To remove the tail fairing you have to grab the lower side of the fairing and bend it outwards while pulling upwards
to clear the plastic subframe pan. When you have cleared one side go to the other side and perform
the same proceedure to completely free the tail fairing
 
 
 
 
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Disconnect the tail light / brake light connector.
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Use the stubby Philips screw driver to remove the two Philips screws that secure the light assembly to the tail fairing.
Put the tail light assembly aside for the moment.
Now before you go any further get the clear alternative tail light and connect it to the
tail light /brake light connector and turn the ignition on and test that the running light and brake light work.
The reason I ask you to test this before going any further is because the connector supplied by clear alternative
is not of the best quality. If the unit does not work you will have to remove the connector and replace it with
the connector from the original tail light. This issue has been noted by other people, my connector worked but it was
rather hard to insert
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The next step is to disconnect the Blue and Orange turn signal connectors. Then cut the connectors so you can splice them
to the clear alternatives turn signal wires. (give yourself about 4 inches of length with the connector)
 
 
 
 
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Strip a quarter inch off the Orange and Blue wires and cut the two green ground wires an
inch further down as they are not required (The ground is wired through the brake light
and taillight connector)
Next cut two inch and a half pieces of self sealing heat shrink tubing and slide them onto the two yellow
signal wires. Strip a quarter inch off both wires.
Solder the wires together and lightly tape the solder points. Now go back to the bike
and connect all the taillight connectors and test that the turn signals, brake light
and running light work. Make sure the turn signals flash on the correct side.
(If they are wrong unsolder them and switch them over.)
 
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After the taillight assembly has been tested. Slide the self sealing heat shrink
tubing over the soldering points and heat till the wires are properly sealed.
 
 
 
 
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Now use a 10mm wrench to remove the taillight mounting bracket and mounting tabs and place
them on the clear alternatives taillight.
 
 
 
 
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All there is left to do is tape up your wires with electric tape and re-install the
taillight to the tail fairing, connect the connectors put the tail faring and seat
back on.
You can remove the existing signals with a 10mm wrench or remove the whole rear
plate holder if you are going with a fender eliminator. See my Larry’s Fender
Eliminator article for more info.
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