Power Commander PC USBIII.
The Power Commander PC USBIII is one of the best performance modifications
that can be made to the CBR1000RR. It allows adjustments to the air fuel mixture so the bike can be
tuned for optimal performance.
Photos By Mad Mardigen
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The Power Commander comes with a stock base map pre-loaded and even the stock map is an improvement over the
stock Honda map, the biggest noticeable difference is the abrupt on/off throttle that is usually mistaken for
driveline lash. The Power Commander with the base map eliminates this almost completely.
The Dynojet Power Commander site also features an assortment of custom maps for different popular brands of
exhaust slip-on’s as well as full systems. Want even more power? Then you can take your bike to an establishment
with a dynamometer and have you own custom map created for optimum performance gains.
So let’s get to it. To install the PC USBIII you will need the following tools. A ratchet,
6 inch extension, 5mm hex socket, 10mm socket, needle nose pliers and a stubby Philips screw driver.
Photos By Mad Mardigen
With your hand fold over the rear corners of the seat,
this will expose the two 5mm hex pan head screws that hold
the seat on. Remove the bolts then grab the seat from
the back and pull it away from the rear.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Remove the four 5 mm pan head screws that hold the tail fairing to the subframe.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
To remove the tail fairing you have to grab the lower side of the fairing and bend it outwards while pulling upwards
to clear the plastic subframe pan. When you have cleared one side go to the other side and perform
the same proceedure to completely free the tail fairing.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Remove the 5mm hex pan head screws on each side of the tank cover. Then remove the tank inserts.
This will reveal the front tank cover screws.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Remove the front tank cover 5mm hex pan head screws on each side of the tank cover.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Remove the two rear tank cover 5mm hex pan head screws. Then gently remove the tank cover.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Remove the two 5mm hex pan head gas tank screws.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Remove the 4 philips trim clips and the one 5mm allan head screw. The trim clips may be a
bit difficult to remove because dirt usually fills the philips head. If this is the case use
a needle to clean them out. Now if your turning the head of the trim clip and is does not seem to
unthread a good trick is to reach inside the fairing and push on the side of the trim clip while
you unscrew it. You only need the trim clip head to unscrew a couple of mm and you should be able
to pull it out with your nails
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Now using the needle nose pliers remove the three trim clips on the right hand side, grip the
head with the pliers and simply pull them out.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Use the ratchet and the 5mm alan socket remove the 2 special screws and then the 3 pan head
screws holding the lower fairing to the mid fairing. Hold the lower fairing when you remove the last
screw so the fairing does not fall to the ground and get scuffed. Gently remove the fairing and put it out of the way.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Next use the ratchet and the 5mm Allan socket remove the 4 pan head screws holding the mid fairing to the
upper fairing. Gently separate the mid from the upper.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Disconnect the flasher connector and remove the mid fairing.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Carefully raise the gas tank and secure it with a cord or a bungy.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
The injectors clearly visible in this picture are the secondary injectors. These are not the injectors that the power
commander connects to. You have to detach the rubber skirt and move it back to expose the primary injectors that are below
the airbox.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Remove the four 5mm Allan pan head screws that secure the rear seat lock mecanisim then remove the four 10mm bolts and remove the sub-frame
plate. Route the wire harness as seen in the pictures and pass the harness connectors down the frame on the left hand side of the gas
tank pivot. Once routed reattach the sub-frame plate and the rear seat lock mechanism.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
The throttle position sensor is located on the left hand side of the bike to the rear of the reguator/rectifier (aluminium
thing with cooling fins) Disconnect the connector and plug the original connector to the pcusb connector and then connect the other PCUSB connector to the
throttle position sensor.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Next starting from the left disconnect one injector at a time, connect the original connector to the pcusb harness and then
connect the other pcusb connector to the injector.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
With the Commander connected put the rubber skirt back on and gently lower the tank. Make sure you do not kink any hoses.
Also make sure to reconnect the fuel overflow and make sure its not pinched by the gas tank.
Put the gas tank bolts back in and your ready to test the installation.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
Next you need to load the Power Commander software on your computer. If you can, I recommend that you go to the Power
Commander site for the software because the version on the site may be more up to date than on the CD.
The next thing to do is set your Throttle. Connect your PC to the power commander and click on the above image to
start the Power Commander Set Throttle tutorial. Note requires Adobe Flash player.
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Photos By Mad Mardigen
The Power Commander comes with a base map already loaded for the stock cbr1000. Other maps are
available on there site for diffrent exaust systems. Click on the above image for the Power Commander Load Map tutorial.
Note requires Adobe Flash player.
Well thats it. Put the plastics back on and go see what you've been missing
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MAINT.
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