Changing the oil on the 1000rr is a pretty simple task. Honda recomends changing the oil at 8000 mile intervals.

I do about 9,000 miles per season and change my oil twice a year regardless. I always change my oil before I put the bike away for the winter and then perform another oil change half way though the season. I have maintained this ritual on my 99 cbr600f4 and at 58,000 miles it still runs like a top and has had zero engine related issues.

To perform the oil change you will need the following tools. a stubby philips screw driver, a ratchet, a 5mm allan head socket, 12mm socket, a pair of needle nose pliers and a waist oil container.

Honda recommends a torque wrench also but I find that is not necessary and also rather difficult to get a torque wrench in there anyway.

Before starting it is a good idea to take the bike for a 10 minute ride to get as much sludge suspended in the oil prior to draining. Once you get back from the ride you can start. We need to remove the lower left fairing first.

To remove the fairing start from the bottom of the fairing. Remove the 4 philips trim clips and the one 5mm allan head screw. The trim clips may be a bit difficult to remove because dirt usually fills the philips head. If this is the case use a needle to clean them out. Now if your turning the head of the trim clip and is does not seem to unthread a good trick is to reach inside the fairing and push on the side of the trim clip while you unscrew it. You only need the trim clip head to unscrew a couple of mm and you should be able to pull it out with your nails

Now using the needle nose pliers remove the three trim clips on the left hand side, grip the head with the pliers and simply pull them out.

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Your almost there. Now using the ratchet and the 5mm alan socket remove the 2 special screws and then the 3 pan head screws holding the lower fairing to the mid fairing. Hold the lower fairing when you remove the last screw so the fairing does not fall to the ground and get scuffed. Gently remove the fairing and put it out of the way.

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Ok now we can get to the business of changing the oil. Take the ratchet with the 12mm socket and loosen the oil drain bolt. Be careful not to burn yourself, the header may still be hot. Next place the waist oil container under the drain bolt and then remove the drain bolt. Be careful not to drop it into the waist oil container.

Note: (The oil shoots out about 6 inches forward of the drain hole so place your container accordingly) let the oil drain for at least 5 minutes you should also hold the bike upright for another minute to allow it to drain completely. Now you can put the drain bolt back in but you should first inspect the crush washer for cracks, replace if necessary. Seat the drain bolt and then give it an extra half turn. Honda recommends a torque of 29NM but its very difficult to get a torque wrench in there so go with the snug + 1/2 turn rule.

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The Oil filter is next. Place the waist oil container directly under the filter and turn the filter off with your hands or use a filter wrench if you have one. I use my hands.

TIP: (The oil will drip on the headers during this procedure and the bike will smoke when you start it afterwards, so what I do is this. I wrap the 2 header pipes with tin foil to protect the headers from the oil) Let the oil drain for a couple of minutes. Now get the new filter and lightly oil the o-ring with clean oil and screw it back on hand tight plus 1/4 turn.

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Oil is next, Honda recommends 2 grades of oil 10W40 and 20w50. The 10w40 is recommended for colder climates and the 20w50 for warmer climates.

Remove the filler cap and add 3 quarts of oil and then put the cap back on and start the bike. Let it idle for a couple of minutes so the filter can fill with oil, also this is a good time to check for leaks. Now stop the engine and let it sit for a couple of minutes to let the oil settle and add more oil until the level indicator shows full while the bike is upright. That's it. Just put your fairing back on in the reverse order of removal and go ride!!!