Larry’s fender eliminator is a beautifully machined solid piece of aluminum it weighs 2.7 oz and the LED light bar weighs in at .9 oz for a total of 3.6 oz. Now compare that to the OEM mud flap and your knocking a good 3 pounds of weight off the bike. Not bad for a complete set up that cost less than 100 dollars

The fender eliminator comes with all the hardware you need to install the unit plus very detailed installation instructions. The same goes for the LED light bar.

Upon examining the fender eliminator I decided not to use Larry’s installation kit because the exhaust strap on my Micron exhaust was perfectly suited to holding this unit in place.

So let’s get to it. You will need the following tools. A ratchet 5mm Allan socket, 10 mm socket, wire strippers, soldering iron and solder, 3/8 drill and a couple of small drill bits, self sealing heat shrink tubing, and a heat gun.

Photos By Mad Mardigen

You need to remove the tail fairing to get at the plate light connector so you can remove the OEM fender and connect the light bar.

Start by removing the seat. You will need the ratchet, 6 inch extension and 5mm hex socket. Now grab the left rear corner of the seat and fold it back, this will reveal one 5 mm pan head screw. Remove this screw and then fold back the right side and remove the other screw. Remove the seat by pulling the seat back.

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Use the 5mm Allan socket to remove the four bolts securing the tail fairing to the bike.

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To remove the tail fairing you have to grab the lower side of the fairing and bend it outwards while pulling upwards to clear the plastic sub-frame pan. When you have cleared one side go to the other side and perform the same procedure to completely free the tail fairing. Then just rest the fairing on the sub frame.

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The next step is to disconnect the White license plate light connector.

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Remove the OEM rear fender by removing the four 10mm bolts that secure it to the sub frame and put it aside for the moment.

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Now we can install the fender eliminator. As I stated I attached my fender eliminator to the exhaust can strap that holds my Micron slip on in place, if you don’t have this option use the hose clamp provided by Larry.

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The next thing to do is measure how much wire you will need to connect the light bar. So take the light bar place on the fender eliminator so you can get a good idea of how much distance you need to cover to get to the plate connector on the sub-frame. Now get the OEM fender and cut the connector off and make sure you cut it far enough back so that the connector and wire will make it to the light bar …more is better.

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This is a little mod I made to the fender eliminator so that the light bar fit tight. I drilled a small hole for the wire of the light bar to pass through. You do not have to do this though; you could use a couple of small washers for clearance and just bend the wires upward. I just felt like doing it this way.

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Now take the tail light connector and strip each wire a quarter inch, cut two 1 inch pieces of shrink tubing and slide them down onto the black and green wires.

Solder the black wire to the red wire of the fender eliminator and solder the green wire to the black wire of the fender eliminator.

Connect the taillight connector to test that the light bar is working. If all is well slip the shrink tubing over the solder points and heat them with a heat gun until they are sealed

Mounting the license plate: You will need to cut a notch in the top left hand side of the plate too clear the light bar wire.

NOTE: If you have a Canadian license plate you will need to drill new holes to mount the plate because this fender eliminator was designed for U.S. spec plates that are a little smaller.

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That’s about it, just route the wire by the sub-frame and use the zip ties to hold the wire in place. Put the tail Fairing and the seat back on and your done.